On the hunt for your first bike? Here are some tips to guide you through the LAMS maze…
The Learner Approved Motorcycle Scheme (LAMS) framework in place across Australia allows novice motorcyclists to ride any of an incredibly diverse range of bikes, but with that choice comes a sizeable issue – which first bike is right for you?
The LAMS framework itself limits learner (L-plate) and provisional (P-plate) motorcycle licence holders to certain models. While there are small differences in the legislation from state to state, the system generally limits novices to bikes with a capacity of 660cc or under and with a power-to-weight ratio of no more than 150kW per tonne.
Hopefully the time already spent in the company of professional motorcycle instructors and an experienced motorcycling relatives and friends has already given you plenty of food for thought, but here are some questions to ask yourself before you begin shopping in earnest…
Relate reading:
LAMS bike buyer's guide
FAQ: What is a good first motorcycle?
FAQ: What LAMS bike should I buy?
What size of learner motorcycle is best?
One of the big drawbacks of the blanket 250cc learner limit that preceded LAMS was that larger riders were forced to hone their skills on bikes that were physically too small for them. A metaphoric 'giraffe on a skateboard' won't be concentrating on their eye direction, throttle control or correct body position if all they can think about is their aching neck, wrists, back etc.
To that end, probably one of most important factors a novice can take into account before buying their first bike is limiting their shortlist to bikes that physically fit them. If you're 190cm tall and built like a silverback gorilla, you're going to feel cramped on the majority of bikes in the 300cc class and below – but larger-capacity naked bikes, sportstouring bikes and adventure bikes should be far more accommodating.
Naked bikes and adventure bikes generally have upright riding positions and an easy reach to the handlebars, while adventure bikes in particular usually have generous leg room and spacious ergonomics in general, making light work of long days in the saddle.
A workable seat height is crucial. If you can't sit on the bike at a standstill and get both feet down to the ground – if not flat, then close to it – you won't feel confident and the likelihood of a low-speed or stationary fall is higher.
If you are on the shorter/smaller side, your options are a little more limited. Cruisers usually have inherently low seat heights, while some naked bikes have modest seat heights too.
Generally speaking, anything with a seat height of below 800mm is on the lower side, and anything above, say, 820mm is on the higher side. However, the shape and width of the seat affect ergonomics too – a wide seat that splays your thighs apart mean more of a reach to terra firma, compared to a bike with a skinny seat and mid-section.
For that reason, to get a proper idea of whether the bike fits you'll need to find an example and actually sit on it. A visit to your local motorcycle dealership will point you in the right direction.
Of course, the higher the weight, the more motorcycle there is to manage – especially at lower speeds, such as when in heavy traffic or even when pushing the thing around in your driveway. Where the weight is carried also makes a difference – cruisers generally have a lower centre of gravity and so the weight isn't so noticeable, while taller bikes – like adventure bikes – usually carry their weight a little higher.
Finally, with both hands on the handgrips, how much weight is on your wrists, how easy is it to look over your shoulder and how far can you turn the handlebars until they hit the bump-stop? A sporty ride position places more weight on the wrists, leading to aches sooner and more work for your core muscles than other styles of bike, while a bike with a wider range of steering is usually easier to thread through traffic.
What styles of LAMS motorcycles are available?
While there are an increasing number of models that cross multiple categories these days, LAMS bikes can largely be placed in the following categories: scooter, naked, sports, sportstourer, cruiser, adventure, and off-road.
Scooters
Scooters range from small 50cc mopeds to mid-capacity maxi-scooters, but the bulk of the genre comprise 125cc to 300cc step-through models ('step-through' because you can swing a leg 'through' the scooter's mid-section, instead of having to swing a leg over it like you would with a traditional motorcycle).
Generally light, nimble and easy to manage, the vast majority of scooters have automatic transmissions, meaning there's no clutch and no gears to manage. They're also very economical to run and, in smaller engine capacities, cheaper to register, but their smaller wheels and shorter wheelbases mean they can be less stable over bumps and potholes compared to regular motorcycles, and models with smaller engine capacities have only modest top speeds – some 50cc mopeds may only be capable of around 50km/h.
On the plus side, scooters are easier to park and store than motorcycles and they have large, secure storage compartments under their seat – usually enough to swallow a helmet and a pair of gloves. They're super convenient and cost effective, but they lack the performance and road presence of most road motorcycles.
Naked
Naked bikes are so-called because they have little if any bodywork (or fairing). They usually have an upright ride position and generally comfy ergonomics, although the lack of a screen and bodywork means you'll cop more wind buffeting at speed – something to think about if touring is on your agenda.
However, that lack of bodywork also means they tend to be a bit cheaper than faired machines and if your world tips sideways you'll be glad you don't have to replace all that plastic – while minor damage can be repaired, replacing bodywork with new panels is an expensive exercise.
Sports
Sportsbikes have screens, fairings and a more forward-inclined ride position than most other motorcycle genres. While LAMS sportsbikes are, as a rule, far more forgiving than their larger-capacity, pure-sports counterparts, their ergonomics are usually more cramped and less suited to taller/larger riders.
However, they're built for fun and many novice riders can't go past their racy looks, which mimic the litre-class rocketships found in most marques' line-ups.
As previously mentioned, be aware that just toppling over at a standstill can spell surprisingly big wads of cash to replace smashed bodywork.
Sportstourers
Sportstourers, as the name suggests, bridge the gap between sportsbikes and touring machines, essentially blending sporting performance with more comfortable ergonomics and some luggage-carrying ability. They still come wrapped in expensive bodywork, but higher-angled screens mean less buffeting on the highway and, as a result, less fatigue for the rider.
New sportstourers may or may not come with the option of factory luggage, such as hard topboxes or panniers, or soft seat bags and 'throwovers' – soft panniers made from leather, waxed cotton or synthetic fabrics like Cordura that sit on either side of the bike with a connecting middle section.
Cruisers
Cruisers typically have longer wheelbases (the distance between the centre of each axle), lower seat heights, and relaxed ride positions that place the rider's feet forward compared to, say, naked bikes or sportsbikes.
These bikes usually mimic the styling of the big, iconic cruises of Harley-Davidson and Indian, and are usually powered by V-twin engines. While the ride position is generally a little more roomy than that of, say, sportsbikes, cruisers can sometimes place the rider's weight at the base of their spine, which may not be comfortable for some – especially taller/larger riders.
But if long and low lines and acres of chrome push your buttons, LAMS cruisers are manageable packages – certainly more manageable than their heavyweight counterparts.
Adventure
Adventure bikes are big in Australia, and with so much country to explore – and so much of it off the beaten track – it's no surprise why they're as popular as they are.
Generally tall bikes due to their long-travel suspension, adventure bikes have upright ride positions and, in many instances, larger front wheels to aid stability and help soak up off-road bumps.
They're generally fairly easy to load up with luggage, too, and should have a reasonable fuel range to get you out the back of beyond (and hopefully back again!).
Taller seat heights may put off shorter riders, but adventure bikes are good all-rounders that take everything from touring to commuting, road or off-road, in their stride.
Dirt
Purely off-road bikes, or dirt bikes, are light and ideal for trail riding or even the odd squirt on a motocross track, but they can also be useful commuters if the daily trek to work isn't too long.
While motocross bikes can't be registered as they lack the required road gear (lights, horn, indicators etc), enduro and trail models may, in most instances, be registered for road use if set up for the task.
Dirt bikes are single-cylinder affairs and therefore relatively cheap to run and service, but seat heights are usually tall, the seating uncomfortable (a lot of off-road riding is conducted while standing up, adding your legs to the suspension equation), and fuel ranges small courtesy of tiny tanks.
Road legal 'knobby' tyres are in inherent compromise, giving average grip on the road or trail – but are usually cheap in comparison to many road tyres – and braking power is modest compared to road bikes.
Oh, and a short word on supermotos (or supermotards) – these are essentially dirt bikes with road rubber and often stiffened suspension and uprated brakes. Far better on the road than your average trail or enduro bike, they're still pretty uncomfortable and have the same limited fuel range – but they can also be a heap of fun!
Compact bikes
Models like Honda's Grom 125, Kawasaki's Z125 and Benelli's TnT 125 are all part of a new breed of 'compact' bikes. With clutches and manual gearboxes they're just like standard motorcycles, but they come in a compact package with a low seat height and a short wheelbase.
They have enough poke to keep up with city traffic but can only just manage highway speeds, while they're priced attractively compared to full-size bikes.
What engine format is best in a LAMS motorcycle?
LAMS models take in a wide range of engine formats, from single-cylinder machines to parallel-twins, V-twins, triples and in-line fours. It really doesn't matter what engine your chosen LAMS bike has, but each format has different nuances in exhaust note and power and torque delivery that contribute to the overall character of the bike.
As a general rule of thumb, in-line four-cylinder engines are smoother but need higher revs to reach their 'sweet spot', while singles and twins produce more low-down and middle-range grunt. Triples arguably provide the best of both worlds.
Just about every new bike has a four-stroke engine these days (with four distinct phases to each firing cycle of a piston) rather than a two-stroke engine, as four-strokes lend themselves better to increasingly tough emissions regulations.
In any case, four-strokes generally provide a broader range of power and torque than two-strokes, which produce their go in a narrow high-RPM band, while two-strokes require thir fuel and two-stroke oil to be pre-mixed in a specific ratio.
Note that some older two-stroke race replicas, like Suzuki's RGV250, Honda's NSR250 and Kawasaki's KR-1/KR-1S don't have LAMS compliance, as they exceed the maximum power-to-weight ratio.
How much do LAMS motorcycles cost?
How big is your budget? LAMS bikes, like motorcycles in general, are available from very little (for old rust buckets) to a lot (for brand-new machines). Factor in paying for decent protective gear first, then see what's left for the bike – if you can't afford to spend $750 at a minimum for a new helmet and a decent bike gear, then we'd strongly suggest you delay buying your bike until you can.
As with any vehicle, you get what you pay for, but half-reasonable second-hand LAMS bikes can be had from as little as $2500 or thereabouts. At this cheaper end of the spectrum, be wary of bikes that have been thrown down the road and then patched up – look for tell-tale signs like non-standard bodywork, 'custom' paint jobs and ground footpegs. Minor damage is no biggie, but bent frames, forks and swingarms spell major trouble.
There is something to be said for buying second-hand for your first bike, and waiting until your skills have improved before splashing out on a newie. There's nothing quite like the despair of a new owner examining scuffed bodywork through tear-filled eyes…
Should I buy a motorcycle with ABS?
In a word, yes! Anti-lock brakes save lives and prevent countless road-bike accidents each year – and that more than counters the tired old argument that a rider doesn't truly learn how to master a motorcycle's brakes until they can sense imminent wheel lock and back off the lever/pedal as required.
Riders who want to take their riding to the next level can perfect their braking on non-ABS bikes down the track if they wish (and preferably on a track), but for novice riders – an overrepresented group in motorcycle accident statistics – go for ABS if at all possible.
How does it work? Put simply, ABS senses when the front or rear wheel is about to lock up (stop turning), and then releases and reapplies braking pressure many times per second to keep the wheel turning while maintaining braking force. While it's still possible to steer with a locked rear wheel, a locked front wheel equals a loss of control – and if you're cornerning at the time, usually a 'low-side' accident...
Of course, dirt bikes won't have ABS (which doesn't permit off-road techniques like rear-wheel steering) and the older a second-hand model, the less likely it is to have this technology. But given the choice of ABS versus standard, you'd be mad not to take advantage of it. If it saves your hide just once – when a pedestrian darts across a rain-soaked road, when a dog runs out from behind a parked car – it's paid for itself in spades.
What protective motorcycle gear should I buy?
As mentioned above, if you can't set aside at least $750 to spend on protective motorcycle gear then delay your bike purchase until you can. At a very minimum you'll need a new helmet and a motorcycle jacket, gloves, boots and trousers (Kevlar-lined jeans at a minimum). Only buy a new helmet – a new helmet moulds to the shape of its owner's head over the first few weeks of use and any previous impacts can severely compromise their protective quality.
Full-face helmets are more comfortable to wear and are generally safer in most accidents than open-face helmets, but open-face lids do provide a sense of freedom that full-face helmets can't match. Until it's starting raining or hailing – then a full-face looks pretty darn appealing!
You can save a bit by buying a second-hand motorcycle jacket, ditto gloves and boots, but be warned that stitching does weaken over the years and gear that's already gone down the road has already survived a considerable hit. Look for CE-approved armour in the shoulders, elbows and knees, too – this guarantees a minimum standard of shock absorption when things go bad.
Back protectors are also a worthy investment if you plan on sportier motorcycling pursuits, but they can be a bit cumbersome, hot and restrictive for day-to-day riding. Textile (synthetic material) gear is more versatile than leather, often having removable waterproof and thermal linings for all-year use, while leather can't be beaten for abrasion resistance (but takes ages to dry out).
If your gear isn't waterproof, a plastic oversuit or trousers will help keep the moisture at bay in cooler climes (but if it's hot, forget it – you'll end up a mobile sauna).
Finally, and as with any bike purchase, you get what you pay for. Look for the well-established brands: you'll pay a premium for top-shelf gear from the likes of Alpinestars and Dainese et al, while your dollar will go further with brands like DriRider and RST, which still offer hard-wearing, effective bike apparel.
But as riders who have learned this motorcycling truth the hard way, heed this: you don't want to start thinking about whether or not your gear is up to it when you're already sliding down the road…
Still confused?
Fear not, you're in good company. Getting to grips with any new pursuit is initially bewildering, but invest some time in research and read widely and your path to riding pleasure will slowly become clear.
Learner-approved bikes are bought and sold in their thousands on Bikesales.com.au every year, so to get a better feel for what's out there (both new and used) click here. Happy shopping, welcome aboard and enjoy the ride – we'll see you on the road!
